Videos
Dave MacLeod describes his endurance training regimen for Rhapsody. While few of us will be doing three 40-minutes sessions a day for 5 days a week, or have a convenient Dumbarton Rock close by, the principles still hold (pun intended). If you're not already climbing 3x+ weekly you likely need more volume to build your base. A simple cragwall mini-system board with easy multi-purpose holds makes volume first training accessible to all of us.
Alan Watts talks with Kris Hampton on this episode of Written in Stone about some of the drama behind the 1988 Snowbird World Cup. At around the 14 minute mark we find out who I really am, "...just kind of a recreational climber." That is still true today. From The Wall, to the Snowbird Wall, to Vertical Concepts with Dale Bard, my time working with and for Alan at EP USA, ...I really have been trying to build something for us "recreational climbers." Thanks Alan. (And if you didn't know, besides being "the father of sport climbing in the US" - Alan was a great accounting mentor as well; and that helped feed my kids better than climbing wall entrepreneurship ever did. Thanks Alan!)